The Unlikely Pilgrim

The sites I’ve seen on this last leg in Mexico have been as charming and impressive as the last.  However, the people we have met in  our last few days in Mexico has inspired my eagerness to return.  

Hola Acapulco!  Bleary eyed from yet another 10 hour bus ride and 3 days of silence in the  dorms, it was time to splurge.  Nea, my fellow backpacker let me book and we arrived at Las Brisas Hotel and Resort.  An adorable pink and white property, high on the hill in Acapulco.  We were immediately impressed,  the service was impeccable from the get go.  Eduardo greeted us with his warm smile and with the quote of the week.  “Ladies, think of the jeep as your elevator.” This property is humongous!  The candy coloured jeep took us to our room, and what a view!  Not to mention our very own private pool!! (Ok so that was unnecessary but it was only a little bit extra.) We were in paradise, lazing about poolside discussing our silence experience, lapping up the rays and Nea getting her kit off at every opportunity (closet nudist that one.)  We headed to the Sunset Bar, where we met the delightful Leo. Having tended this spot for over 10 years this is his bar and this man is a legend. Overlooking the spectacular sunset on the pacific, the vibe makes you feel like you are in your mates lounge room. Leo even gave the whole bar a round of drinks on him because the cutie couple next to us  got engaged !! 

I explored the town with Carmen the delightful driver who spoke little English and even with my limited Spanish, through our warm smiles, giggles and hand gestures we understood each other.  Isn’t it funny that words really are such a small part of communication, because we really did enjoy our time together.  She encouraged me to take a boat trip to Isla de la Roqueta to see the Virgin Mary submerged underwater off the coast,  the visibility was not great but I did meet two charming boys who took me to lunch on the island .  They explained the history of buildings and monuments in Mexico I simply must see and introduced me to a very odd drink called michelada.  Not sure that’s my cup of tea but I tried it, beer and tomato juice?  Back on the mainland Leo and Eduardo were doting on us again at cocktail hour, they insisted we see the cliff divers.  My dad having been to Acapulco in his navy days over 40 years ago also said it was a must see.  The show was brief but terrifying!  These strapping young men, climb the 136 foot cliffs and hover at the top awaiting the tide to be just right, as to not hit the rocks below.  At that perfect moment like a graceful Olympian, down they go toward the crashing waves and tumultuous sea.  I held my breath more than once.  The last diver of the evening lit two torches and after kissing the feet of the mother Mary shrine atop the cliff, performed a faultless dive with a somersault or two and it was over! Wow! Wow! Wow!  Generations of divers have been performing this for tourists and locals for years, it certainly is a timeless spectacle. 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Our trip nearing its end we arrived in Mexico City and it was time to farewell my travel buddy and yogi off on her next adventure whilst I hit the church trail. This is how I met the magnificent Ismael.  Having taken us to dinner the night before, by chance Ismael was also my driver for my last day in Mexico and I simply adore this man.  We explored his great city, whilst discussing all things Catholicism, he was so knowledgeable and keen to tell me everything I wanted and should know.  We went to the Plaza des las Tres Culturas. Then passed the Santa Judas followed by an eventful stroll through La Villa de Guadalupe. There are several churches in this place and is the most visited catholic site on earth.  It was here in which The Virgin Mary appeared to San Juan Diego, which resulted in the original church being constructed on that site. Followed by 5 other magnificent buildings across the ages, to accommodate the congregations as the population grew.  As it was a Sunday there were services taking place in all of the churches and thousands of faithfuls wandering around the grounds.  The architecture a real treat.

My favourite the dainty chapel within the new Basilica, the latest addition to the complex.  Modern and not grand like the other buildings but I felt the warmth and love of God in that little room.  We passed by the Virgin de Guadalupe on the viewing travelator  This painting revered by all Mexicans and the detail and intricacy of this piece of art history was fascinating.  Symbolism on steroids in every feature, constellations in the print of her dress, the moon at her feet and the baby bump only slightly visible.  I loved my time with Ismael. His calm, steady voice and his ever articulate delivery with passion and enthusiasm made for radiant conversation.  I’ll definitely be back to explore, next time we’ll go to Puebla and Cholula. 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

I met up with Julio, the chatterbox diver we had met in Isla Mujeres.  He took me out to dinner with his friends to one of the oldest buildings in town.  Julio can literally talk under water but again his passion and patriotism as he walked me through the modern history of his great nation was delightful.  I was in awe listening to every word as I sipped my tequila and corona.  His paraphrasing of significant events like “and then Napoleon came and we kicked his ass” was comical and informative.  

Mexico is a country full of history, breathtaking landscapes, diverse cities, fabulous food and the people are amazing.  Kind, welcoming, faithful and colourful characters. I was actually nervous coming here and needed a pep talk and a cuddle before leaving Dubai. What for?  Sure there is crime here and pockets with some significant issues but name a country who doesn’t.  Mexico for me was a random trip to meet a friend and now is firmly on the list to explore further next year and beyond. 

Mexico – Te Amo y Hasta Luego.

http://www.visitmexico.com/en/cliff-divers-in-acapulco-guerrero-mexico

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Our_Lady_of_Guadalupe

Yours in Faith

The Unlikely Pilgrim

In the deafening silence, all that can be heard is the thunderous crashing of the waves.  This just about sums up how I felt being at a Silence Retreat.  I have never practiced meditation before and for those who know me, 3 days of silence is more like a cruel punishment than something I’d pay to be part of.  Nonetheless, there I was at Hridaya Yoga in Mazunte, Mexico ready to begin the 3 day silence and meditation retreat.  We were encouraged to write a journal of our experience and with no phone, no reading, no talking, music or even making eye contact with each other.  I thought it best to take them up on that!  Rather than attempt to explain the techniques that we learnt or relay all the fascinating history or the inner turmoil and peace associated with this retreat.  I’ll let my inner thoughts,  unedited from that journal tell my story .  So, through the eyes of an apprehensive beginner and fish out of water…. Here it is.

Day 1

Breakfast Break. – I’m trying to have an open mind and I have been quite sceptical up to this point. I admire the enthusiasm and excitement from the other participants displayed at the orientation.  I do think that I will learn a thing or two and I quite enjoy listening to the main guy (Sahajananda) speak about the origins of the different techniques eg. Buddhism, Sufism, Hindu etc.  I’m sure I want to hit a yoga retreat or two in the future and might even explore other meditation retreats.  But,  it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to realise that silence isn’t really my thing.  To me it feels a bit false and unnatural not to communicate with others.  Adam and Eve did not exist in silence and God did not give them Eden to hang about under the apple tree ignoring each other.  Humans are companion creatures and belong together, well that’s my view.  Quiet time is golden of course, but don’t even smile at each other. C’mon!   Initial practical observations.  I have no idea what that white stuff at brekky was and the “oat milk” not great.  I’ll pee in the compost toilets but I wont be doing number twosies in there and I also wish they’d stop referring to scorpions, its freaking me out!

Lunch Break – I think meditation for me is the battle between sleep and wakefulness and not in a good way.  It’s not about a racing mind or not being able to centre myself.  In fact I am so  bloody tranquil that I nod off every time I close my eyes, and within minutes!  Wow, there are two butterflies dancing in front of me and when they are close to one another “sparks” are heard. (What is this?)… Maybe its the cosmic energy?  Weird.   Anyhoo, I’m beginning to think my lesson here is to choose my words more, which is a practice I have already begun.  Also to practice what I preach and be tolerant and accepting of others wholeheartedly in all circumstances.  For we are  ALL Gods children.  Eg.  Is it judgemental of me to see inappropriate attire and think, why do I have to stare at your ass for 3 days? Or do I just need to accept her clothing choices.

Personal Practice – I’m lucky!  I have the opportunity to take part in experiences that people would love to have the time and money to do.  I’m lucky and I don’t even wish for this experience, it is by sheer mateship that I ended up here and whilst it is not my passion or even necessarily my interest.  I am grateful to be here because I’m doing what I set out to do.  Immerse myself in other cultures, environments and experience situations that I wouldn’t normally experience.  Ok, so I’m not the best meditator in the world, but I bet by day 3 I’ll be better than I am today (If I can stay awake that is).  It’s interesting to watch people do their personal practice (I’m sure I’m not supposed to be watching).  But, I’m surrounded by head stands, shoulder stands, blind folded meditation, people just chilling, its yoga pose central in here.  It looks funny when they are not in unison like in a class.  Question.  Why don’t yoga people wear bras? Seriously,  is there a guideline I missed?   Also to note,  Tortilla chips and carrot sticks for dinner at a silence retreat… Are you joking?

Bed Time – Holy Shit! I think I just meditated.  I didn’t move or fidget, I didn’t fall asleep and I stuck with it the whole time.  Well, haven’t I come along way since this morning. One day down, two to go.

Quote of the day – “The heavens and the earth cannot contain me, but the heart of a true believer can”. (Hadith Qudsi,Islam)

ERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Day 2

Breakfast Break – Ok,  so I’m back to the battle. So much so it feels like the charming little bell that sounds is actually putting me in the ring.  Ding, Ding,  Round 2.  In the red corner Therese and SLEEP in the black corner.  That was such a loooong 2 hours. I’ll try again next session, maybe brekky will wake me up more.  Another thing, it’s quite strange trying to avoid Nea.  She’s been one of my mates for 20 years and when I see her coming, I avert my eyes and ignore her existence.  I know if we lock eyes, our friendship telepathy will kick into gear and “silence” will be lost and smirks will appear.  I don’t want to ruin the solitude for her, but I have a sneaky feeling she’s thinking the same thing.  The connection is strong with that one and she can read my thoughts, especially when they are screaming “Oh My God! Is it over yet?”  She’s literally inches from me most of the day and its like pretending we are two strangers on the train who don’t want to meet.  I’m glad she’s here though, it’s comforting to know we are  in this together, even if we can’t actively support each other in it.

Lunch Break – Praise the Lord!  I did it again.  I truly meditated, no interruptions, not even a flinch and I didn’t notice the time going by either.  It’s a good thing too, because I had a little note from one of the monitors today with some helpful advice.  It seems my lacklustre efforts from this morning did not go unnoticed.  I feel ready to conquer the mammoth afternoon session, after a run and a dip in the ocean of course.

Afternoon Session – I will not be beat! Earplugs and eye mask at the ready, (Thankyou Emirates). Here we go!

Bed Time – I’m not sure this much meditation is for me, but I’m really enjoying the lectures with all the references and comparisons to different religions and beliefs. Our teacher is a wealth of knowledge and such an engaging speaker.  One day to go!

Quote of the day “The same tremor of the heart is in the heart of the Hindu that adores Krishna as is in the heart of the Christian that worships Jesus” (Sahajananda)

Day 3

Breakfast Break – Ok, so meditation, me and the mornings just don’t work.  Is it because I’m still sleepy or is it because I am well rested and therefore wide awake?  Who knows? I’m excited to be able to at least have the opportunity to try.  Last day, here’s hoping for enlightenment and cosmic bliss (hahaha).

Lunch Break – The thing with meditation in this environment, if you’re a newbie like me is, it can be quite frustrating.  That said, I think I’m going to enjoy learning and developing my meditation practice later on when there’s not so much pressure on myself to feel zen.  Also I’d just like to say, I hate beans! Black beans, white beans, baked beans HATE HATE HATE them and after today I’m never eating one again.  The food here has been good, I just never understood why vegan eating has to be so polluted with wretched legumes.

Afternoon Session – I am Victorious! I did come out a few minutes before the little bell but absolutley my best effort to date.  It’s almost over and at the beginning when I was feelings so daunted by it all, I heard my mum’s voice “This too will Pass”.  That little gem has got me through so much in life. Thanks Mamma.

Bed time – We did it! Who knew I’d miss the sound of my own voice so much (hahaha). We had an intimate debrief with the Guru and I think that was my favourite part.  His energy is so infectious and I’d love to pick his brain for hours. Such a warm, open man and a fountain of spiritual knowledge of all persuasions, the Romanian Dalai lama, good and pure and kind.  Hilariously, the whole time I was trying to “save” Nea’s solitude by ignoring her, she was thinking I was actually super mad. Oops.  3 days of silence was enough for me, I will be sure to investigate similar retreats without the communication ban.  Simply because I love to meet people and learn from their perspectives and enjoy discussing life, love, the lord and everything in between.  A fascinating 3 days to say the least.  If nothing else I picked up some very effective techniques to get to sleep easily.  Not sure that was the point.  Over and out (said out loud).

Quote of the day “Silence is the language God speaks, everything else is a poor translation” (Rumi)

So that’s that. I  am pleased to have attended and my relationship with meditation has definitely begun.  Maybe not in a lifelong partner, love of my life kind of way but maybe I have met a new casual lover and I definitely want to see him again soon.

Yours in Faith,

The Unlikely Pilgrim

A lovely little highlands town and way more tourists than the last two stops. I can see why, pedestrian only streets lined with cafes, cobblestones and artisan gift shops. Street vendors selling items you actually want to buy ( hence the new poncho), which was needed. This is the first time I’ve been cold in Mexico, even had to wear jeans at night. Another picturesque town, where you can wander about all day and just get lost in its quaintness. Ofcourse they have some beautiful churches, my new friends Ruth and Claudia recommended we check out San Christobal church perched on the hill, it dominates the skyline, I was surprised to see yet another “Christo Negro”, it really is a regional delight. We came across St Christopher and I explained to Nea he is the Patron Saint of Travellers. My own version dutifully hanging from my neck for over 8 years, since I came to this part of the world the first time in 2008. Oh South America, what a baptism of fire that trip was, much less calamity this time round.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

With some gorgeous natural sights in the area and Nea keen for a study day. I ventured of to see the El Chiflon waterfalls and the lakes of Montebello National Park. A 3 hour drive the 12 on tour slept on the way there and with a Spanish only speaking guide, I blindly headed up the path in search of these famed falls. El Chiflon it turns out is a series of waterfalls (cascades) and a busy picnic spot for tourists and locals alike. I
took a glance at the lower level falls and met some of my tour mates at what we thought was the top. Famous last words from our guide “You might get wet.” I think he meant “You absolutely will get saturated.” The falls were stunning and yes I was drenched, Maria (our newly appointed guide, as she is the only one with English and Spanish) lead the way to the actual top. It was a fair climb, but we were rewarded with sensational views and even spotted an iguana.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

On the way down, we found a shortcut…by zip line. I’m in! I harnessed up and with momentary hesitation I leapt off the podium and soon after “landed” close to the bottom. The view from the valley was fabulous as it flew by, best idea ever.

Next stop Montebello Lakes. Having bonded over our climb, would you believe the English speakers of the group were Sandeep the Sikh from Leicester, Sunita the Hindu also from the UK, Maya the Israeli Jew and Maria the Mexican Catholic. Well it goes without saying the rest of the day was spent swapping perspectives, beliefs and they all gave me invaluable advice on destinations and festivals for next year. This intinery just keeps on growing.

The lakes were magnificent and certainly beautiful to see. However, practically at the Guatemalan border, I’m not sure they’re necessary on a day trip (we left at 8am and got back at 9.30pm). Especially, given the time available, our drivers instructions went something like this ” Ok chikas, get your picture and let’s go.” There is 2 and 3 day trips which I think would be better. That way you can enjoy the lakes, go for a swim, have a picnic or take the traditional log boats out to the island in the middle and see the Cenotes. Exhausted and a little anxious because I had a night bus to catch, our new clique giggled and chatted life, love and faith all the way home. The day best summed up by Sandeep ” I love the ride home from a tour when all those strangers are now your friends.” Amen to that.

Next stop, Mazunte for a 3 day silent retreat..Eek!!
Yours in Faith

The Unlikely Pilgrim

So there we were, wandering the streets of glorious San Cristobal when I caught the eye of what looked like an American cowboy in rural Mexico. It was Nathan. A Canadian (not American) donning a cowboy hat (not actually a cowboy). I didn’t notice at first but he was manning the Jehovahs Witness stand. We got chatting and I apologised for my ignorance on his religion and explained my quest to learn all things faith and asked if he had time for a chat tomorrow. He had work, but his wife would be here, brilliant! So I flicked him a business card grabbed the name of the ladies manning the spot tomorrow and bid farewell.

Ruth & Claudia – what a delight !

I approached the stand in the main plaza square and introduced myself. Well they were so happy to see me. “Oh we’ve been expecting you, sit down please.” We chatted for hours, sat there on that park bench, occasionally interrupted to tend to an interested passerby who wanted to know “does Jesus really exist ” as prompted by their banner.

Both Jehovahs Witness born and bred. I learnt Claudia had only just arrived in Mexico, a Mexican girl raised in the US her and her husband Brent and two children , Micah and Matthew moved from Arizona only 6 weeks ago. After a summer in Mexico they had a calling to come down here and experience a different life. A highly successful couple in abundant american suburbia, their network surprised and confused by the choice, but they shook it off and followed their heart and so far are loving every minute.

Ruth, Nathan’s wife met her “cowboy” in Vera Cruz, her hometown and moved to Chiapas a year ago. A beautifully spoken woman, you could feel the glow of faith pouring through her. An old soul my mum would say.

They explained all about being “a witness” we discussed the frustration on having all these amazing qualities in a religion, unity, charity, missionary work. Yet sometimes all the outside sees is, “so you don’t celebrate birthdays and don’t do blood transfusions.” Well they also support millions of people in thousands of congregations worldwide, provide exceptional online resources and apps for free, to enable people to learn about God and in 800 languages. They celebrate Christ and dedicate their lives to spreading love into the world. Is that not enough? I think so. They explained their “meetings” where all members of the community are welcomed and all ages (no kids Sunday school). The structure I quite liked. Starting with a hymn or two, followed by a reading which anyone can do, not just the elders (the JW version of a preacher), then a Q and A session discussing today’s topic, so you leave really having learnt something. I think there might even be coffee and cake after.

They explained they follow the story of Jesus and take their cues from the bible directly. Eg. Matthew 24.14 – “And this gospel of the kingdom will be preached in the whole world as a testimony to all nations”

These women are pure of heart and whilst I’m sure their are pros and cons to being a Jehovahs Witness, especially to the world outside. That’s the beauty of choice, the gift of free will. These women love their chosen religion and their faith is definitely making the world a better place. So who are we to judge if they blow out some candles once a year or not. It wouldn’t work for me, since I have birthday week. But, they definitely brightened my day and taught me something new.

Thankyou for all the light and love you shine upon the world. Keep up the good work ladies 💋❤️🙏😇

Yours in Faith

The Unlikely Pilgrim

Historical Merida, a four-hour bus ride from Cancun. I was surprised that we were stopped at military and police checkpoints 3 times, still deciding if that makes me feel safer or unnerved? Anyhoo, we arrived safe and sound.  Merida is not a normal touristy town, in fact other than the Lithuanians in our Air BnB (Casa Tolok, lovely hosts and cheap as chips $21) I didn’t see another tourist throughout our stay here.  Well, not that stood out as much as Nea and I do with our English rose complexions.  

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Being a Sunday, I investigated English church services. Yes! I found one, so I thought (in theory, yes, but in reality…not a chance.)  Instead, I attended two masses at the Merida Cathedral in Spanish and was in awe of this place, such a formidable building.   The oldest cathedral on the continent, with construction commencing in 1561, although not completed until 1598.  It feels like a stamp of authority on the town by the conquistadors whom introduced Catholicism to this Mayan land. This church and others, utilising Mayan slave labour to build and boldly even using the stones from destroyed Mayan sites.  Inside, I felt a much calmer and peaceful vibe.  I have heard the word of Jesus preached in many languages.  Thai, Malaysian, German, Indonesian, Gaelic, Filipino and now Spanish, just to name a few.  To me, it really doesn’t matter what is said.  The feeling of belonging I have in the house of God, continues to inspire me to be the best I can be.  To be kind and loving to my neighbours and follow the path that has been laid before me.  This place was no different, to be part of something greater than anything I can imagine. It is a feeling of contentment in times of joy and solace in the challenging times.  In the evening, I headed to the Iglesias de Jesus Church, I went for mass but ended up in choir practice instead.  The magnificent surroundings echoed with the lull of harmonies of classic hymns sung beautifully in spanish. It was a much livelier experience then the mass I was expecting. 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Churched out, we decided to explore three Cenotes (sinkholes) that were raved about in the Lonely Planet and by other travellers we had met. They were not wrong!  Not only were these places natures finest, the trip to get there was half the fun.  We jumped on the local bus to Cuzama (24pesos). On arrival to this dusty and rural town, a mototaxi took us to the next stop where the access to the Cenotes actually are (maybe 10 mins from where the bus drops you (50pesos). Then the exciting part,  a very rustic horse-drawn cart on mini railway lines takes you the rest of the way, all through luscious green forest.  Brilliant!   These lines are in place from when the Henequen plant was harvested and taken to the machine house to be processed on this network, centuries ago.  Now a quirky and novel tourist transport system to explore the nearby Cenotes. So we bridled up Barbie (our horse) and Lorenzo our fabulous guide, Nea and I set off.   

On the railway line about 10 minutes in, we came to the first Cenote.  A dainty cave about 15 metres down was awaiting us.   I won’t lie, I was a bit apprehensive about jumping in and ended up just wading about assuring my self I would dive into the next one.  Next was a much deeper cave, climbing ladders and very steep makeshift stairs to get down, it was precarious at best.  This cenote was 25m deep and the water looked like a black hole and the temperature, definitely fresh.  Oh Dear, we’re in! Lastly was the Piece de Resistance.  Back on the cart, Barbie dutifully carried us another 10 mins down the jungle track.  This place is what dreams are made of!  I truly can’t describe the colour of the water, it was enchanting.  It was like looking through glass, you could see to the rocks of the bottom of this Cenote easily and I needed no convincing to dive in, it was paradise.  Nea and I floated about, just smiling at each other thinking how lucky we were to be here in this hidden oasis.  A memory I will always cherish.  I could literally write pages and pages about this spot, its one of the worlds treasures and my favourite place so far on my Mexican adventure.  If you ever have the chance to come here. Do it!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Next stop Campeche, only two hours from Merida and a delightful surprise.  A colonial town surrounded by city walls built in 1540 by the Spanish conquistadores.  5 gorgeous churches for me to explore (Sorry Nea). We just walked the colourful streets all day, stopping at beautiful coffee shops, exploring the sites as we stumbled across them. Even squeezed in a spot of shopping, this town is adorable.  The streets like a scene from a movie, I  wondered if the locals realised how lucky they were to live in such a magical place.  I ducked into all five churches that we came across.  The cathedral of course the most impressive with a quaint little garden come cemetery out the back littered with plaques of people passed.  I  stopped to say a prayer for the world, the family and for love ones lost.  It was definitely the most architecturally beautiful being the centrepiece of the city.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

However, just outside the city walls, a couple of block back from the Esplanade I found the intriguing  Templo De San Roman.  Intriguing because behind the altar hangs a large crucifix, as is normal but on this cross lies a Black Jesus.  A feature unique to Central America and Mexico, I later discovered with a series of “Christo Negro”  shrines dotted across the region and even as far as the US.  Apparently the reason behind this is an original wood carved crucifixion in Guatemala that blackened over time and is said to be  miraculous, thus starting a following and development of  similar shrines.  It oddly reminded me of the “Like a Prayer” film clip Madonna brough out in the late 80s which caused all sorts of drama with her controversial story line and Saint Martin de Porres (a Peruvian), played by a black man, often confused to be playing  Jesus.  I pondered this outrage for a length of time, sat beneath this version of the crucifixion that I have never encountered before and thought.  Why is it so offensive for Jesus to be depicted this way? It’s not like he was a freckly, blonde from Sweden, scripture tells us he was born in the middle east.  Chances are he looks closer to this image than anything else,  Ahh modern-day prejudice how your ridiculousness humours me.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

This town has much more to offer, unfortunately I got hit with a nasty tummy bug on the first night and was bed bound for the rest of the stay.  We don’t need a blow-by-blow of that, so just read the link below for some other beautiful features of this town that you may want to explore and maybe I’ll get back here one day too.

12 hours to our next stop and the first overnight bus in Mexico – with a yukky tummy.  This should be fun.

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/mexico/yucatan-peninsula/merida/sights/religious/catedral-de-san-ildefonso

https://www.airbnb.es/rooms/9508005

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/mexico/yucatan-peninsula/campeche

Yours in Faith,

The Unlikely Pilgrim

Having been back from the Philippines one day.  Sure, let’s climb a mountain, that seems like a great idea!  Having flirted with the idea of climbing the 3061m peak for almost a year, Judy (59) and I booked it 6 weeks ago.  My half hearted instruction of  “make sure you do 100 squats a day and we’ll be fine”, may have been famous last words .  Mt Agung is the highest peak in Bali and a sacred spot  tothe Balinese Hindus, it is said that Mt Agung is in fact a part of Mount Meru  split by Hindu God Pasupati many moons ago (Mount Meru being the centre of the universe according to ancient Hindu teachings ).  There are two routes  to climb Mt Agung, a route via Pura Besakih (Bali’s holiest temple, also known as Mother Temple ) or Pura Pasar Agung near Selat which starts at a higher elevation. 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

We commenced our expedition from Pura Pasar Agung at the wee early hour of 1.30 am, we were on the trail.  At that point, I was quietly thinking, “what are we doing”?  The surroundings at that time are obviously covered in a blanket of darkness and your focus and attention is solely on the foot steps before you.  However, we enjoyed the night lights views across the valley on the way up, stopped for breaths and chocolates.  I would say and I think Judy would agree we were lulled into a false sense of security given how well we were doing …. Then it hit!  We were out of the scrub and stepping over quite a precarious little rock step ,that with a slip of the foot was potentially fatal.  (Insert deep breath here). 

The last hour is all scrambling and as the dawn breaks, I’m not sure seeing the magnitude of the risks before you is something I enjoyed, ofcourse the views were breathtaking.  That said, we did it!  Just as the sun was rising, we had conquered the mountain. The view was spectacular and I really think this is where the heavens start,  as much as I appreciate a calming ocean view, the mountain top is my heaven every time. 

Of course being on this sacred site, we could not attempt our descent without first paying our respects to the Gods.  So our guides Ducky and Gede lead us in an Odalan at the peak,  when all the other climbers had gone.  The feeling of offering your gratitude to God from such an awe inspiring place with not a sound around except maybe a monkey flitting by (they were just hanging out up there) was simply enlightening. 

What goes up must come down.  Miss Judy was not loving the fact there was only one way down and neither were some other climbers (in the dark, ignorance is bliss but in the bright light of day those cliffs were quite confronting ). After a polite reminder that she was in fact a mountain goat and as such had to lead me out, we were away.  

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The descent is defintely the hard part and having climbed Mt Batur (Bali’s easier and  more popular peak climb) I was surprised at how long and arduous it was.  Again we stopped to enjoy the views and Gede and  Ducky explained the importance of this great place and recommended we do it again from Besakih (let’s just get through today shall we.)   Judy was being an absolute trooper and when I was convinced we were 10 mins from the end (Ducky pointed out  it was closer to an hour) you could tell she was feeling every inch of the trek and so was I.  Honestly, the resilience, determination and perseverance she displayed made me burst with pride. Whist she joked we were no longer friends, I am so pleased we did it together, it was a wonderful experience. 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

So if your in Bali. Make the trip it’s truly sensational, not just a walk in the woods so if your like me, maybe get down to the gym a bit more before you do it .  I highly recommend Bali Trekking Adventure.  I’ve used them 3 times now and they are absolutely brilliant, on time, great guides, reliable.  A special mention to Gede and Ducky who were absolute legends , great english, informative on the history and landscape and just a good laugh. They’re safe, fun and know the mountain like the back of their hand. What else do you need in a guide. 

www.balitrekkingadventure.com

Yours in Faith, 

The Unlikely Pilgrim