brazil – The Unlikely Pilgrim

Sinners are Grinners in Rio

April 8, 2017theunlikelypilgrim

After a very interesting few days in Sao Paulo I was in need of a very stiff drink or two. Rio’s Carnival did not disappoint. This five day festival of music, dancing, parties and what appeared to be free love was just what the doctor ordered.

Carnival, believe it or not, is originally a Catholic tradition to signify the beginning of Lent. ‘Carne’ from meat and ‘vale’ from farewell. Farewell to meat as the abstinence of Lent is upon us. Today of course the Mother Mary and Jesus Christ was not the immediate thought that sprung to mind as I samba’d my way through the crowds of people in fancy dress (or fantasy as they call it), from batman to pirates, fairies and okay, so I met one Jesus.

The bloco parties are the places to be – informal samba parades through the streets. There is a list of maybe 50 to 60 parades every day of carnival in different neighbourhoods and are not to be missed. At the Boitata bloco party the ebb and flow of bodies in the crowd seemed to be in unison with the band marching behind us. The access to ice cold beer is second to none, given that on every corner and in fact through the parades, entrepreneurial vendors are selling beer and alcoholic icy poles from their eskies and the crowds sells them out.

The Brazilians are VERY friendly and I met some lovely people through my host Monica and on the streets where I did have to duck out of a random kiss or two. As my Uber driver explained via Google translate, Carnival is for kissing. Well I can see that from the plethora of loved up couples and strangers for that matter. There was mouth to mouth on the streets and dreamy eyes were constantly being thrown in my direction, and that of the other cutsie batgirls that surrounded me. This is ironically what my grade 8 religion teacher would say is a party for heathens. That’s certainly the viewpoint I received from the odd service I managed to attend in my attempt to drag myself away from the delightful sin of Cerveza and Samba and get back on track. The Unlikely Pilgrim, oh yes religion that’s right…

So, to balance out my Ying and Yang approach to my time in Rio was Church Day, Party Day or Angel in the morning, Devil by night. Slightly hungover I ventured to the Monastery of Sao Bento high on the hill in the docks area. I’m so glad that I did not miss this. The monks here celebrate with the Gregorian chant every Sunday at mass time; it felt like I was catapulted back in time. I was surrounded by the incredible splendour of gold leaf shrines to Catholic Saints, spectacular decorative architecture flaunting the wealth of the empire at the time.

Yet amongst all this splendour there was a serious tone and devout tradition in the ritual of the service, complete with incense burning in the thurible. These 16 men in their dark robes and stern faces together provide a baritone melody saying Lord knows what that echoed through this incredible building and into my soul. Time for another bloco! 😉

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I could spend months exploring the churches, cathedrals and immerse myself in the Saint’s Day rituals that are a-plenty here. Perhaps Carnival was not the right time to come? Beer and live music is my weakness in life (albeit I managed the Christ Redeemer – an incredible monument – Checkout my YouTube clip on it – link below); though I did venture to into the Favela’s to discover the grip of Catholicism and the Evangelical movement on those communities . If I’m honest, the backbeat of the samba parade and bloco parties won this round.

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SO, through the haze of beer goggles, and bronzed Brazilian babes, my Summary is this: Brazilians love (in no particular order) the Lord, beer and women.

Yours in Faith,

The Unlikely Pilgrim

Sao Paulo – Unique Encounters – Part 2: Universal Church

March 23, 2017March 22, 2017theunlikelypilgrim

In Sao Paulo, a giant replica of the original Temple of Solomon has been erected by the evangelical Universal Church and Kingdom of God. It seems to be encased in controversy here in Brazil and outside and my research brought up quite nasty headlines and articles, so I thought I’d see for myself. I was initially a bit apprehensive given the amount of security and the preconceived notions I had from my research. Yet I found a lovely pastor visiting from India and the reception lady was very helpful and arranged an English-speaking tour of the tabernacle later in the day. Flavia was very knowledgeable and answered all my questions on my private tour of which two other men did accompany us, which felt odd. He humoured my questions about the synergy of certain aspects that seem to crop up in lots of religions like the numbers three or seven, for example. The replica tabernacle erected was interesting, not spectacular, but I understand its purpose as a prop to the story of Moses, the tabernacle and the temple, so that was fine.

What lingered eerily in my mind (which I did question Flavia on was that after two hours touring a visit to the tabernacle and impressive memorial, it felt like I had just visited a Jewish Museum. So why did a Christian organisation spend $US300 million of their and their congregation’s money on building what felt like a shrine to Judaism, in Brazil of all places? His response was simply to remind people of God our saviour, a bit weak I thought. The stones were imported from Israel, the specifications, word for word, were from the old testament, yet scaled up five times. (Was that necessary?) Olive trees were from Mount Mariah. I’m open, it’s glorious, but why? If a Jewish movement built it, I’d get it, but to me it’s a bit like a Buddhist sect in Australia recreating the mosque of the dome of the rock in Sydney . Okay so Islam, Judaism and Christianity are all Abrahamic religions but still, I’m lost. Any ideas? My research continues…

What happened next was what blew me out of the water! I decided to return a couple of days later to attend a service and the night-time service was the busy one. Wow! I approached and was ushered towards an English speaker who took me underneath the courtyard where all electronics and food must be deposited (no phones). Led through a thorough search with full pat down and I was asked to taste test my two water bottles (excessive?). This is Brazil, but I’d wandered in and out of mosques, churches and a temple already (feeling sceptical at this point). We entered, (I’m still being escorted) we ran into Samuel the Indian pastor and we sat together where we could listen to the English translation. Was he there by accident or am I being paranoid? It started! Boom, the preacher (bishop) entered the stage of this monumentally large room with a replica covenant at the front of the room and imitation columns at the side. The décor, whilst grand and lovely, felt almost like a church themed conference hall, beautifully modern, but I’m a sucker for the grandeur and detail of old historical churches from days gone by. Perhaps this interior will be admired in 500 years’ time by faith writers of the future. The outside certainly will, it was just an odd contrast, but maybe that’s just me?

Like any service, prayers were said, songs were sung and the energy of the congregation was one of light and love. Until I heard what sounded like screaming coming from the other side of the hall muffled by the translation headphones I was wearing, then suddenly like the climax of a scary movie, I looked up and on the screens you could see the bishop addressing a woman vehemently. She looked like what appeared to me like Sigourney Weaver at the end of the movie Ghost Busters. This was an exorcism in progress (oh shit!).

Samuel the Indian pastor had already headed to the front to participate in praying over the congregation at the front and was feeling very far from home. The bishop was shouting through the woman to the demon in her and whether I subscribe to the belief that this woman had a demon inside her to address it, it certainly looked that way. She looked dishevelled, eyes red and erratic, her voice was soft, yet was a violent whisper when responding to the bishop. Meanwhile the entire congregation of about 6000 held their hands up towards the woman and shouted something in unison that translated in my ears as “GET OUT!” It was surreal, I was frightened as I prayed to God for protection and the fanfare of it made me question the authenticity, but Brazilians are quite forward in most things and the same can be said for many rituals in many religions, ‘Eid sacrifice, Holi among others’. Ten to 15 minutes passed (it felt like a lifetime) and it was done. The woman had been delivered from her evil and was now debriefing with the bishop. She looked completely different, refreshed, kind, and elated.

I probably looked disturbed when Samuel returned. “Let’s talk about what just happened there after; shall we Sam?” The rest of the service was as expected, a well-delivered sermon, inspired reflection on the topic of relationships. It was a relevant and engaging message by the bishop, co-hosted by his wife. I really enjoyed it but was also coming down from the opening events.

In the week following this encounter I have been challenging my response and view. This was a very different experience for me. It was new and it made me nervous, however I was the only one, everyone else was fine, everyone else was participating. Should a Muslim enter a temple at Galangun in Bali and witness the slaughtering of a pig, they would be horrified. Similarly, if a Buddhist attending the sacrifice of Eid in a mosque, I imagine appauled is how they would feel. And yes, this Christian was overwhelmed in witnessing an exorcism in the universal church but that doesn’t make any of those rituals less valid than another. It opened my eyes and I will attend the universal church more. This experience has challenged my pilgrimage, it’s challenged me to commit to have an open heart and open mind, even when I am apprehensive, because again, the similarity is there. Shocking and confronting, but deliverance is present in at least four of the top six religions that I’m researching. And that’s ones that I know of.

Mmm…let the adventure continue – next stop is Carnival, which is probably a good thing. I need a beer!

Yours in Faith,

The Unlikely Pilgrim

Sao Paulo – Unique Encounters – Part 1: Umbanda

March 18, 2017April 1, 2017theunlikelypilgrim

Brazil is the world’s largest population of Catholics with an estimated 130 million followers. So, it was obvious this trip was going to be focused around the big JC; however I have had two completely unique encounters in Sao Paulo that I wasn’t expecting.

I was hosted in Sao Paulo by my dear friend Giovanna, whom I shared a room with in Ubud when we were teaching English in Bali. She offered to take me to see her chosen religion in action. Naturally I jumped at the opportunity, so with her family leading the way we went. Umbanda – an Afro Brazilian tradition dating back to when the African slaves were brought to Brazil by the Portuguese. We were treated as guests of honour as we had told the leader what my trip was about and that I was interested in all things faith. There, on a small stage elevated above the congregation by maybe half a metre, we sat behind the draped white curtains, in the heart of the action. And action it was. Starting in darkness the participants (mediums) were dressed in flowing white skirts and tops with different colour sashes, symbolising their rankings in the hierarchy of that centre. The women were on the left; the men on the right.

An outstanding band of drummers was off to the side, and boom, it started! LOUD is not the word the beating of the drums pounded into my heart and soul, in a good way, and then the chanting started by the leader and two male singers whose voices echoed equally through my every being. Dancing and chanting before an altar of candles and 17 figurines/entities, ranging from Jesus Christ, Indians, Catholic saints and even a sea goddess. It started with greetings and hand signals between the mediums which I likened in my mind to secret handshakes. There were circles of dancing and erratic movements as the spirits entered. A series of circle-based dances were performed, cleansing the room, clearing the evil, and all negativity that we carry with us. All our doubt, anger and jealousy were cleared. The room must be pure for the spirits. The lights went on and the dancing continued and then we were summoned to the middle circle. Hands were laid on me and turned around three times (ofcourse the magic number) [M1] and sat back onto my seat. Only myself, Giovanna and her mum Angelina were ‘blessed’ in this way then the ritual continued, again we were summoned and this time after our three turns we were led to the leader Gina, who touched different parts of my body in a sweeping motion or hand patter – shoulder, tummy, hips. I was turned around and the same was done on my back. Then I got a hug and a kiss – nice.

This time the congregation came to the stage (shoes off) through to the circle then in lines to the mediums of which there was about 15, for what looked like when you go to the front of the church for prayer. However this was more conciliatory and I found out later it is for advice, prayer or guidance. It was a lovely gesture. All the while the drums continued to play and then there was another blessing where I was led to Americo, the gentleman who originally invited us to participate on stage. This was again the hand movements upon my front and back, chanting with words of encouragement and the customary cuddle. Finally, it was candlelight only again for the closing of the ritual where the mediums allow the manifested spirits to leave them and return to themselves, ready to face the world after having blessed others through the entities that were the leaders of this group.

A delightful evening and whether my faith allows me to believe that spirits were in that room, the feeling of closeness to God and humanity was following through me as I left and the beating of drums will beat in my heart for years to come.

Yours in Faith,

The Unlikely Pilgrim
[M1]Another connection to the number 3 perhaps? All your other blogs have highlighted the importance of doing things 3 times as rituals. Maybe this is another one of those?

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