Sao Paulo – Unique Encounters – Part 2: Universal Church

In Sao Paulo, a giant replica of the original Temple of Solomon has been erected by the evangelical Universal Church and Kingdom of God. It seems to be encased in controversy here in Brazil and outside and my research brought up quite nasty headlines and articles, so I thought I’d see for myself. I was initially a bit apprehensive given the amount of security and the preconceived notions I had from my research. Yet I found a lovely pastor visiting from India and the reception lady was very helpful and arranged an English-speaking tour of the tabernacle later in the day. Flavia was very knowledgeable and answered all my questions on my private tour of which two other men did accompany us, which felt odd. He humoured my questions about the synergy of certain aspects that seem to crop up in lots of religions like the numbers  three or seven, for example. The replica tabernacle erected was interesting, not spectacular, but I understand its purpose as a prop to the story of Moses, the tabernacle and the temple, so that was fine.

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What lingered eerily in my mind (which I did question Flavia on was that after two hours touring a visit to the tabernacle and impressive memorial, it felt like I had just visited a Jewish Museum. So why did a Christian organisation spend $US300 million of their and their congregation’s money on building what felt like a shrine to Judaism, in Brazil of all places? His response was simply to remind people of God our saviour, a bit weak I thought. The stones were imported from Israel, the specifications, word for word, were from the old testament, yet scaled up five times. (Was that necessary?) Olive trees were from Mount Mariah. I’m open, it’s glorious, but why? If a Jewish movement built it, I’d get it, but to me it’s a bit like a Buddhist sect in Australia recreating the mosque of the dome of the rock in Sydney . Okay so Islam, Judaism and Christianity are all Abrahamic religions but still, I’m lost. Any ideas? My research continues…

What happened next was what blew me out of the water! I decided to return a couple of days later to attend a service and the night-time service was the busy one. Wow! I approached and was ushered towards an English speaker who took me underneath the courtyard where all electronics and food must be deposited (no phones). Led through a thorough search with full pat down and I was asked to taste test my two water bottles (excessive?). This is Brazil, but I’d wandered in and out of mosques, churches and a temple already (feeling sceptical at this point). We entered, (I’m still being escorted) we ran into Samuel the Indian pastor and we sat together where we could listen to the English translation. Was he there by accident or am I being paranoid? It started! Boom, the preacher (bishop) entered the stage of this monumentally large room with a replica covenant at the front of the room and imitation columns at the side. The décor, whilst grand and lovely, felt almost like a church themed conference hall, beautifully modern, but I’m a sucker for the grandeur and detail of old historical churches from days gone by. Perhaps this interior will be admired in 500 years’ time by faith writers of the future. The outside certainly will, it was just an odd contrast, but maybe that’s just me?

Like any service, prayers were said, songs were sung and the energy of the congregation was one of light and love. Until I heard what sounded like screaming coming from the other side of the hall muffled by the translation headphones I was wearing, then suddenly like the climax of a scary movie, I looked up and on the screens you could see the bishop addressing a woman vehemently. She looked like what appeared to me like Sigourney Weaver at the end of the movie Ghost Busters. This was an exorcism in progress (oh shit!).

Samuel the Indian pastor had already headed to the front to participate in praying over the congregation at the front and was feeling very far from home. The bishop was shouting through the woman to the demon in her and whether I subscribe to the belief that this woman had a demon inside her to address it, it certainly looked that way. She looked dishevelled, eyes red and erratic, her voice was soft, yet was a violent whisper when responding to the bishop. Meanwhile the entire congregation of about 6000 held their hands up towards the woman and shouted something in unison that translated in my ears as “GET OUT!” It was surreal, I was frightened as I prayed to God for protection and the fanfare of it made me question the authenticity, but Brazilians are quite forward in most things and the same can be said for many rituals in many religions, ‘Eid sacrifice, Holi among others’. Ten to 15 minutes passed (it felt like a lifetime) and it was done. The woman had been delivered from her evil and was now debriefing with the bishop. She looked completely different, refreshed, kind, and elated.

I probably looked disturbed when Samuel returned. “Let’s talk about what just happened there after; shall we Sam?” The rest of the service was as expected, a well-delivered sermon, inspired reflection on the topic of relationships. It was a relevant and engaging message by the bishop, co-hosted by his wife. I really enjoyed it but was also coming down from the opening events.

In the week following this encounter I have been challenging my response and view. This was a very different experience for me. It was new and it made me nervous, however I was the only one, everyone else was fine, everyone else was participating. Should a Muslim enter a temple at Galangun in Bali and witness the slaughtering of a pig, they would be horrified. Similarly, if a Buddhist attending the sacrifice of Eid in a mosque, I imagine appauled is how they would feel. And yes, this Christian was overwhelmed in witnessing an exorcism in the universal church but that doesn’t make any of those rituals less valid than another. It opened my eyes and I will attend the universal church more. This experience has challenged my pilgrimage, it’s challenged me to commit to have an open heart and open mind, even when I am apprehensive, because again, the similarity is there. Shocking and confronting, but deliverance is present in at least four of the top six religions that I’m researching. And that’s ones that I know of.

Mmm…let the adventure continue – next stop is Carnival, which is probably a good thing. I need a beer!

Yours in Faith,

The Unlikely Pilgrim

Pilgrim of the Week – Fabián the Priest

The people I come across never ceases to amaze me. Wandering solo the pathways of Al Bass archaeological site, only two other people were in the entire place, and one of them was Fabián. We got chatting and it turned out he is a seminary – four years ago at the tender young age of 24, he felt called to become a priest, dropping out of uni and headed to the seminary; much to the frustration of his father. He made his commitment to God and is now in the community as a youth pastor guiding the hearts and minds of the next generation. He is a softly spoken man with an infectious dedication to the Lord that lingers on his every word. He is now back at university finishing his studies, so it seems you can have it all. Follow the pathway of the Lord and that of your dad. Lol!

Sao Paulo – Unique Encounters – Part 1: Umbanda

Brazil is the world’s largest population of Catholics with an estimated 130 million followers. So, it was obvious this trip was going to be focused around the big JC; however I have had two completely unique encounters in Sao Paulo that I wasn’t expecting.

I was hosted in Sao Paulo by my dear friend Giovanna, whom I shared a room with in Ubud when we were teaching English in Bali. She offered to take me to see her chosen religion in action. Naturally I jumped at the opportunity, so with her family leading the way we went. Umbanda – an Afro Brazilian tradition dating back to when the African slaves were brought to Brazil by the Portuguese. We were treated as guests of honour as we had told the leader what my trip was about and that I was interested in all things faith. There, on a small stage elevated above the congregation by maybe  half a metre, we sat behind the draped white curtains, in the heart of the action. And action it was. Starting in darkness the participants (mediums) were dressed in flowing white skirts and tops with different colour sashes, symbolising their rankings in the hierarchy of that centre. The women were on the left; the men on the right.

An outstanding band of drummers was off to the side, and boom, it started! LOUD is not the word the beating of the drums pounded into my heart and soul, in a good way, and then the chanting started by the leader and two male singers whose voices echoed equally through my every being. Dancing and chanting before an altar of candles and 17 figurines/entities, ranging from Jesus Christ, Indians, Catholic saints and even a sea goddess. It started with greetings and hand signals between the mediums which I likened in my mind to secret handshakes. There were circles of dancing and erratic movements as the spirits entered. A series of circle-based dances were performed, cleansing the room, clearing the evil, and all negativity that we carry with us. All our doubt, anger and jealousy were cleared. The room must be pure for the spirits. The lights went on and the dancing continued and then we were summoned to the middle circle. Hands were laid on me and turned around three times (ofcourse the magic number) [M1] and sat back onto my seat. Only myself, Giovanna and her mum Angelina were ‘blessed’ in this way then the ritual continued, again we were summoned and this time after our three turns we were led to the leader Gina, who touched different parts of my body in a sweeping motion or hand patter – shoulder, tummy, hips. I was turned around and the same was done on my back. Then I got a hug and a kiss – nice.

This time the congregation came to the stage (shoes off) through to the circle then in lines to the mediums of which there was about 15, for what looked like when you go to the front of the church for prayer. However this was more conciliatory and I found out later it is for advice, prayer or guidance. It was a lovely gesture. All the while the drums continued to play and then there was another blessing where I was led to Americo, the gentleman who originally invited us to participate on stage. This was again the hand movements upon my front and back, chanting with words of encouragement and the customary cuddle. Finally, it was candlelight only again for the closing of the ritual where the mediums allow the manifested spirits to leave them and return to themselves, ready to face the world after having blessed others through the entities that were the leaders of this group.

A delightful evening and whether my faith allows me to believe that spirits were in that room, the feeling of closeness to God and humanity was following through me as I left and the beating of drums will beat in my heart for years to come.

Yours in Faith,

 

The Unlikely Pilgrim
[M1]Another connection to the number 3 perhaps? All your other blogs have highlighted the importance of doing things 3 times as rituals. Maybe this is another one of those?

Pilgrim of the Week – Mohammed

 

Wandering the streets of Byblos, a town that dates to the Phoenicians some 6000 years  ago, is a square with a quaint Catholic chapel on the right and a historical mosque on the left. I was eager to enter both, so I asked the gentleman at the entrance of the mosque if ladies could enter (always wise to ask in the Middle East). This was Mohammed. Pleased we had our headscarfs in hand, he welcomed us in to what I discovered later was the men’s prayer hall. Mohammed discussed Islam willingly with us. He was interested in my project and insisted on taking pictures of me in front of  where the Imam sits. Mohammed gave me a contact of his nephew in Melbourne so that I could interview him when I got back to Australia. Mohammed’s openness to us three ladies is what makes the journey to understanding and tolerance easier. Of course, in Lebanon this is exactly why they stand out, one country, one God, different pathways. Thank you Mohammed and yes, I will ring your nephew.

Yours in Faith

The Unlikely Pilgrim

Lebanon #2- Christian Connection

Having explored the myriad of civilisations that have passed through this land, I decided to seek out some of the iconic locations referred to in the Bible. As a Christian, to be anywhere near places that I read about in school and that are referred to in sermons in church every week, I was so excited. (I know, I’m a religious geek!)

I had the privilege to explore two astonishing places, one in the south one up north. On the way to Sidon and Tyre in the south I visited Magadouche to see a cave/grotto where Mary herself waited for Jesus whilst he preached to the Canaanites in Sidon. Being there was a bizarre feeling and I was confused by my response. Of course it was a spiritually charged place for me and is a famous pilgrimage site, but I also felt a wonderment that I can only associate with being star struck: the thought that Jesus was there. The man I follow, the Lord in my eyes, has stood on this spot. It was overwhelming. I sat for hours and read the history, in Mark 7:24 it says Jesus left that place and went to the vicinity of Tyre. I was there in that place. WOW! And in John 2:1-11 it explains how Jesus turned water in to wine, this took place 10 kms down the road. The first miracle of Christ; encouraged by his Mother. I was overwhelmed to say the least.

Another sanctuary that truly inspired me was the monastery of Mar Sharbel and St Maroun. High in the hills overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and snow-capped this time of year lays this humble monastery. A remarkable building and home to both St Charbel and St Maroun, the latter who founded the Maronite Church, a Catholic associated sect found mainly in Lebanon and accounts for 20% of the population. I was there in time for a service where I heard passages from the bible chanted in Arabic. Upon the altar were nine black cloaked monks singing in a baritone harmony that was quite mesmerising. I snuck in a little video, so keep your eye on YouTube for that. The tomb of Mar Sharbel is housed there and pilgrims come from miles around to pray for healing. Mar Sharbel is famous for healing people of all faiths, a true man of God who lays his hands on the sick. Legend has it a lady was healed of a rare form of cancer and she to this day attends the monastery on the 22nd of every month. It is said that her wound weeps when she is on the mountain. Unfortunately, I wasn’t there on the 22nd but the vibe of this extraordinary property with such a spectacular backdrop certainly beckons. It commands the presence of God and in faith I think anything is possible.

http://www.saintcharbel-annaya.com

I’ve had two welcoming and kind families host me and share with me their faith and culture. I’ve met interesting characters, both Christians and Muslims, and both are equally proud of their heartlands and what has happened there. I’ve even had some frank discussions about Hezbollah and Daesh which came forth quite naturally.

I love Lebanon I feel even more connected with my faith having come here and I hope to return in the summer to delve further into this country, its people, its past, and of course for some more tabouli and meze,  The Gluttonous Pilgrim lives on!

Yours in Faith,

The Unlikely Pilgrim

Pilgrim of the Week – Georgette – Open Heart, Open Mind

The Khadij family were an absolute pleasure to have met. Maround and Noha have four beautiful children, Joseph the Accountant, Fedi the Pharmacist, Charlie the Engineer and Georgette the Midwife. I enjoyed my conversations with the whole family, but Georgette captured my heart. At 20 years old, this young woman is what gives me faith in humanity. We discussed at length the social issues arising from nearly two million refugees in an already resource-poor country, we discussed the differences but also the similarities between faiths. Most incredibly we discussed the human reflex to judge. Certain cultures have certain characteristics. As a majority, the Aussies drink beer, the Spanish  drink lots of red wine, and the Americans do everything BIG. But what we tend to do is stereotype or generalise people because of their faith. We chatted about this in relation to a program she was involved in and little did I know she contemplated our thoughts for days. When I left, she said, “You’re right, we should not generalise and we should accept each person as an individual,” and she thanked me for helping her realise that. What? I thought this woman had broadened my  eyes with her open heart and honest and frank views on life. It just goes to show that real conversations with people, where you’re honest and true, can have an impact on you or on them. I am thankful to have met this wise young woman whose contribution to her country and this world I’m sure will not go unnoticed as the compassion in her heart can only be a blessing for all humanity.

Lebanon – A history book of faith

Lebanon! What an incredible country. My first few days in Beirut was spent enjoying the famous Lebanese hospitality, exploring the historical sites and eating! I’m beginning to think this project should be called ‘The Gluttonous Pilgrim’. I’m enjoying the food and people just as much as the religious contexts that I find in every destination. There goes the yoga body! It is a Middle Eastern country with a European vibe. They say it is the Paris of the east. Walking through downtown Beirut, I can see why.

History is everywhere you turn in Lebanon, from the Garden of Forgiveness in Beirut sandwiched between the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque and the St George Maronite Church ruins that are centuries old. The history is also evident at the sites  in Jbeil (also known as Byblos) and Baalbek – the place of one of the world’s largest Roman ruins.

Down in the valley near the Syrian border is Baalbek, an almighty display of Roman grandeur, layers upon layers of civilisations, religion and faith threaded through each one. Here the Romans built temples dedicate to Venus – God of Love, Bacchus – God of Wine and Jupiter -God of Sky. A Triad of Gods at that time. Three – there’s that number again, so prevalent in so many faiths. I’ll be investigating that further. The temple of Bacchus  was recently restored and is host to opera festivals. The expansive interior was once used for  ceremony: a reminder of the rituals of the day. Then when the Byzantines moved in the temples were converted to cathedrals and churches for prayer and finally the Omayadd Empire converted sites to mosques and citadels.

Byblos and Anjar are also steeped in religious history. Wherever ruins are found, whether they be theatres, houses, stables, stores or fortresses, always close by is the house of worship, the temples of Gods and Goddesses, cathedrals or mosques. In Anjar there is evidence of a private mosque for the prince who came to Lebanon during the Omayyad era, the first Islamic rulers. Even in Byblos that dates back six thousand years to the Phoenicians, Temples for the God of War, the God of Love and Dance, among others.

 

If you want to explore the historical sites in Lebanon I highly recommend it. I was blown away by the construction and intricate details in the stone and marble buildings here. Our guide Natasha, an archaeologist, brought the stories to life through her passion for the past and jovial commentary on the quality of restoration works.

http://www.nakhal.com/

In modern times religion is highly debated; part of the reason I’m on this trip is to understand organised religions’ role in this modern world. One thing that has struck me about my trip to Lebanon is that all religions are here to stay. The sustainability of faith through war, evolution, progress and everything else the world throws at us is undeniable. Religion and faith survives. It is the centre of our ancestry and it shapes our future, whether we like it or not.

One theme that appeared at every site was cemented when I visited Tyre in the south where the necropolis of hundreds of people was discovered. And that is the acceptance of different religions is the centre of Lebanon’s culture. In Tyre, there is a Christian cemetery next door to a Muslim burial site, separated by a dividing wall. The echo of the call to prayer sounds, as the Maronite Church bell’s chime. My Muslim driver holds my hand through the ice so I can reach the hermitage of St Charbel to pray. The doors are open to their neighbours in Palestine and Syria, regardless of religion. Sure that situation brings its challenges for society and resources but the ‘honour thy neighbour’ principal is there. Pope John Paul II said, “Lebanon is more than a country. It is a message of freedom and an example of pluralism for the East and West”. I think he’s right .

Yours in Faith,

The Unlikely Pilgrim